Thanks for Visiting.
I’ve moved my blog to my own domain: animaltalkconsulting.com .
You will find all these posts here (at this location) there (at the new one) as well. I will be adding new content at my new domain.
Thank You Again!
. What do each of these dogs have in common? FUN! Look at the resourcefulness of these pets. Take in that wonderful smile. Is that not face to die for? What do you think the owner of each of these dogs have in common? FRUSTRATION!
Let’s talk about
COUNTER SURFING
When I was in college (I mention that, otherwise no one could guess) I had a wonderful German Shepherd named, Little Boy. He was anything but little, but he was everything wonderful. Our house on campus was so small that we had to keep him outside, which just killed me. The problem was not with me, but with my wife. I guess she had good reason. One day we were having a very special dinner, roast. Understand, meat for us was a rarity. With three children and no money, meat was just unaffordable. We ate a lot of mac/cheese, eggs/beans, soups, but more seldom than seldom, meat. We were like Pavlov’s dog with that roast on the table. Remember the Christmas Story? The turkey on the table? The dogs? Yep, that is what happened. I had let Little Boy out of his fenced area. Linda was in the kitchen rustling around, I was in another room (we didn’t have that many). I heard a yell and “#*&@ Littler Boy.” I ran from the other room (our rooms were not very large), and all I saw was a butt and tail exiting the back door. The meat was gone, Linda was upset, and Little Boy was banished, exiled to his fence, and we had potatoes and carrots for dinner.
If you are laughing about this, it is not because this is funny (it is now) but yours is a sympathetic laugh. Nearly all who read this has had a similar event. Some of you have called me, pulling your hair and mumbling things unrepeatable. And your poor dog! In these situations I have to calm the owner and rescue the dog. When the owner is telling me the kitchen misbehaviors of Fido, I quietly laugh. The descriptions are like the Marmaduke cartoons. I sometimes jest with the owner and say, “That is so much like a dog.”
My daughter’s dogs are the King and Prince of Counter Surfing. Cooper is a Flat Coated Retriever and Oliver is a Black Lab. Sandwiches, pizza, hamburgers, steak, crackers, bread, hot dogs, a chocolate cake (whole cake), all gone. These dogs are no respecters of food. Cooper had extensive training as he went through my behaviorism program with me. Attaching a rope on the door handle, I taught Cooper to open the refrigerator. Linda was baking bread. We have a towel on the oven door handle. Thinking nothing about it we went about working in the house. When we came to the kitchen the bread pan was on the floor and half of the loaf of bread was gone. That ornery Cooper, seeing a towel on the oven handle, opened the door and found a warm treasure that met the delight of his palate. Now don’t tell me dogs do not generalize. I rescued Cooper to a car ride so Linda could calm down.
Let me brag about my dogs. Nekayah is a Louisiana Catahoula Leopard, and Dexter is a Great Pyrenees. Both have had service dog training and Nekayah serves us as a Service Dog. They have had extensive training. We can leave a plate of grilled hamburgers on the table, grilled steaks on the counter, or food on the patio table. Neither of our dogs will touch. They may take a few whiffs,
But I have never had either of them “steal” anything with one of us there or none of us there. This is because Nekayah, Dexter and I had a very specific conversation and they cooperated with me in proper training to overcome these temptations. When Cooper is here Nekayah and Dexter go to another room. They’re not about to let Cooper get them in trouble. He is on his own.
Besides “#@$&!$#” what can one do to stop this aggravating behavior from one’s pet? Or, is there anything that works? There are so many powerful odors. If we are preparing stew, we smell stew. Fido layers the odors. He smells meat, potatoes, and carrots. So the first thing we need to realize is that these are powerful temptations for Fido. Understanding this will help us to keep our expectations reasonable. When you cook, do you not take a taste? Don’t expect more from your dog than you can expect of yourself.
Here are a couple of things you can avoid in the kitchen with your dog.
It is in Fido’s genes to scavenge. Also, if Fido has found food there before then he will check it out again. That being true then we are complicit in his behavior. On our side, counter surfing can be dangerous. Fido may get scalded. He may break a plate and get glass shards in his paw. He may get a pill or other objects that can be lethal.
Okay, that’s enough of the don’ts. Let’s talk about resolutions to the unwanted behavior of counter surfing. Are you ready for this? The onus is on you. If you do not want Fido jumping up on the counter, you have to help him. You cannot expect Fido to just “know.” The first step you must take is to remove the temptation. No, I don’t mean you need to tear the counters out. I mean you must manage the temptation. Keep the counters clean. Move things to the back of the counter. Place a cake in the oven or microwave, or refrigerator. Have a bread box. Keep the lower cupboards closed. Keep the lid on the trash can. Take the chicken bones OUT to the trash can outside. The bones smell good, but can splinter, so why temp by having the throwaway in the house trash? The point is, good management helps to set Fido up for success. Booby traps help set Fido up for failure.
The real place to start with Fido is when he is a puppy. The moment we take ownership of Fido, his training begins. The real problem with counter surfing is Fido’s jumping. We who own pets must teach Fido what we do not want very early, by teaching him what we do want, what is allowed. Because he is so cute owners allow the little guy to get away with behaviors as a puppy, thinking he will grow out of them. He won’t. By doing this the owner is doing a bait and switch which leaves Fido very confused which causes other unnecessary issues. My personal opinion is that every puppy should be crate trained. The crate should be the best and the safest place in the house. Fido can be taught to go to his crate on cue, or to go to his crate when you are working in the kitchen.
If you dog is adolescent or older and you are just wanting to stop this unwanted behavior, you can. Some are afraid because their dog has been allowed to counter surf Fido is too old or the behavior is too ingrained to be changed. That is not true. Age does not matter. How long it has gone on does not matter. Unless a dog is mentally or physically impaired, with Clicker or Marker training, Fido can be taught any new behavior. If you do not understand Clicker Training, please find my article titled, WHEN? WHY? – CLICKER TRAINING. You will find this article under the Education or Training tabs. Reading that article will help you understand all of my philosophy and methods of training.
So MANAGEMENT is the first step in curbing counter surfing. Training is step two. You may ask, “What do I train?” I’m glad you asked.
You can train, “FOUR ON THE FLOOR.” This is primarily a jumping issue. Now, if you have a Great Dane then the issue is his height and “Four on the Floor” is not the only alternative. Four on the Floor is easy to capture. Any time Fido puts his paws on a chair, jumps up on you, have your clicker. When he drops his paws on the floor, click and treat Fido. Act like you are working on the counter tops, or you may have work that needs done. Fido will show interest and may put his paws on the counter. Totally ignore that behavior. Have your clicker ready and when Fido puts his paws on the floor (watch him closely) when his paws touch the floor, click and treat Fido. Timing is important. Click when Fido’s paws touch the floor. If you are late with the click and Fido turns his head, he may think that is what you are marking. You can give Fido one treat, or you can give him two or three. Fido will think, “Wow, when my paws are on the floor it is better than being on the counter.” Ignore the behavior you do not want, reinforce the behavior you do want.
“GO TO YOUR PLACE.”
This is a great alternative. You can use Fido’s crate, or you can lace a pad on the floor. With your clicker and treats ready capture Fido’s going to the mat. You will not use words until you get the behavior, but when you do, you can use “place” or “mat.” The way you begin is to stand near the mat and when Fido even looks at it, you click and treat. This is all by successive approximation. Any interaction with the mat elicits a click and treat. Remember, one click and treat 1, 2, or 3 treats. Some people have misunderstood the clicker and click a couple of times. It is just one click, then treat.
When Fido is going to the mat reliably, then you can begin introducing the cue. Let’s use “place.” As Fido steps on the mat say, “Place,” click and treat. Keep backing your cue up so when Fido is a few feet away, you say, “Place,” Fido goes to the mat, click and treat. To help you reset Fido, you can toss the treat a few feet away from the mat, and then you can re-cue him. You can teach him to lay on the mat and then, when you ask him to “go to your place,” Fido will go to the mat and lay down. Now you can begin adding duration and distractions.
You can use a mat because it is easier to move around. You can have it near or in the kitchen so Fido can watch what you are doing. You can have a Gong toy filled with good things, and let him enjoy that. This tends to be a little more mobile than a crate.
Some people do not want Fido in the kitchen at all. That is easy. Teach Fido where he can be. You can teach him to not go closer than the tack strip in the door way, or the carpet edge. He will put his paws just over the edge, but this is also a great alternative. You can teach Fido to stay until released.
Here is where you succeed or fail. CONSISTENCY, CONSISTENCY! Every person in the home, including children, must be on the same page. If it appears Fido is just not getting it, I will guarantee it is because he is getting conflicting messages. Inconsistency is the sure way to set Fido up for failure. Guess who will be blamed? That’s correct. Fido. So involve everyone in the training. You will have to instruct visitors. If a family member comes to visit and wants to drop a piece of cheese for Fido, tell her “No.” CONSISTENCY, CONSISTENCY!
Fido may have a relapse every now and then. Do not scold, just get the clicker out and do a refresher course. In time it will be natural for Fido to go to his place when you begin messing in the kitchen. You will turn to cue him to his “place,” to discover he is already there. You may want him near you and just sit near you while you work in the kitchen. Either way you have him with “Four on the Floor,” or lying in his “place.” The counter surfing problem is resolved. You are happier, Fido is happier, and it was achieved without yelling, or “#*&%@%.” The watershed to this is that you now have a deeper relationship with Fido. He knows you are pleased and you know he is happy.
WOW! What a great outcome
WHAT? & WHY? – CLICKER TRAINING
Several years past I attended a basic training course for my dog. Actually it was I who needed training but that is for another articles. In the class the leader brought out this little plastic box that made the sound of a cricket. She told us it was a CLICKER, and that with this we would train our dog. I was skeptical. I mean, after all, how manly is that thing? I wanted to stand tall and erect, chest out, and with a baritone voice give commands and everyone is wowed by my control of my dog. I was not impressed with the use of this tool.
The problem was, this thing called a CLICKER was not well explained. The science of CLICKER training was never referred to. I thought this to be another silly fad. Without proper introduction and demonstration one cannot understand the proper use and the effectiveness of the CLICK to which the animal, for this article, the dog, in just a few minutes, comes to love. When I take the CLICKER out of a drawer or my pocket my dogs come, sit, and wait with anticipation of what is to come. If all I’m doing is moving the CLICKER the disappointment is evident on their faces, “Aaww,” and they go someplace and lie down. I want to explain that CLICKER training is not a fad, but is solidly couched in science, and its effectiveness seen in results.
“CLICKER TRAINING” can be a confusing term. Not all trainers who use a CLICKER are “CLICKER TRAINERS.” Not all trainers who use a CLICKER are positive trainers. Not all “positive trainers” are always “positive.” A bona fide CLICKER TRAININER is a Force-Free Trainer. A trainer that does not manipulate, coerce, or force the dog to do something. One who believes punishment is not needed because punishment, 1. Shuts the dog down, 2. Destroys the trust of the dog in the trainer. There are other watershed problems with using punishment in training an animal, but I will not go into those. Just think about a teacher who punishes the children and your child doesn’t want to go to school anymore, perhaps gets sick before the bus arrives, and you will be able to fill in the sentences I am leaving out.
Personally, I prefer using the term “Marker Training.” We also refer to the CLICKER as an Event Marker. The event is the wanted behavior offered by the dog, the CLICK marks the event of that behavior being offered. “Marker Training” explains what I do when I use a CLICKER in my training. Marker Training and CLICKER TRAINING can also be confusing for this reason, not all CLICKER TRAINERS do not always use that little box that clicks. We “Marker Trainers,” to mark a desired behavior may use the CLICKER, we may use a tongue click, we may use a retractable pen for a softer click, we may use a whistle, and we may use a word, or we may use all of these depending on what is working best. Important to remember is that CLICKER TRAINING or Marker Training is a psychology, a technology, and a philosophy of training.
It would be helpful to have a working knowledge of both classical conditioning and operant conditioning. The reason this would be helpful is so one, in selecting a trainer, will have an understanding of a trainer’s terminology. Traditional trainers often use the language of a Marker trainer, but not the practice. CLICKER TRAINERS not only use the terminology, but we apply the principles of operant conditioning in all we do. It is more than a “method,” it is a way, It is not what we use, but who we are.
When I “mark” a behavior, usually with a CLICKER, I am marking a behavior in time. For the dog it is like a snapshot of the behavior he (I don’t like the word “it,” so I will use “he” generically), performed. The CLICK is a green light, it is a loud, “yes” that the dog understands. Following the CLICK his behavior is reinforced, which “pays” him for the behavior. Now the behavior is most likely to be repeated.
The CLICK is always followed by a reinforcement. The dog must pair the CLICK with a reward. The reward is usually food, but not necessarily. Sometimes it is a toy, a moment of play, it could be praise. But always CLICK, reinforcement. To pair the CLICK with the reward is to have your dog in front of you and you CLICK and treat ten times a couple times a day for two or three days. The evidence your dog is getting it is when you CLICK and he jerks his head. He may run to you so have a treat ready for him. Now you are ready to use the CLICKER for training.
Here are three term terms remember. First, the CLICKER is a “secondary reinforcer.” When the dog hears the CLICK, that in itself is a reinforcer, but something must follow that. Second, this is where the treat or reward comes in. The treat is a “primary reinforcer.” It is the “wage” for the work just performed by the dog. Three, a bridge. The CLICK serves as a bridge in that you have a few seconds to give the reward. Because the reward in now solidly paired with the CLICK the time for delivery is not thought of, by the dog, a delay. He is not going to lose his connection between the CLICK and his behavior. This is better understood when you think of the trainer of dolphins. The trainer blows a whistle to mark the behavior the dolphin just correctly performed, but it takes the dolphin a couple of seconds for him to swim to the trainer to get his fish as a reinforcer.
I won’t go into how the CLICK, as a secondary reinforcer, goes through is processed through the amygdala to the cortex and locks in the behavior as it is reinforced. When the dog has that down, he never forgets it. When that behavior is under stimulus control you can put the CLICKER and treats in the drawer until you are going to train another behavior. My point is that the CLICK is not just a meaningless noise paired with a reward. The process is psychologically sound and the results predictable. This is why I love what I do because the dog enjoys the training, I enjoy training, and as partners we succeed together. It is a new day when the dog realizes we are communicating in a meaningful way, and that he is the one making that thing CLICK.
So here are the steps:
Notice, I am not using a word yet. I am not saying “sit.” I want to get the behavior first and as the dog understands what we are doing. When the dog is returning and sitting, on his own, eight to ten times in a minute, then it is time to introduce the word (cue), “sit.” The key is, as the dog is sitting and committed to the sit, say the cue, “sit,” then when his butt touches the floor, CLICK and reward. Again you can toss the treat a couple of feet away which will reset him. He returns, begins his sit, give cue “sit,” CLICK, reward.
You see, in Marker training we want to get the behavior, then use a word to pair with the behavior. We are cooperating together. No force, no coercion, no punishment. In traditional training the trainer tell the dog “sit,” which the dog has no clue what is being asked or told. Then the trainer jerks up on a choke chain or prong collar, pushes down on the dog’s butt, forcing it to “sit.” So the dog is punished twice. 1. The choke chain is jerked up (remember, a choke chain does what it is called), 2. The dog’s but is pushed down. The dog stiffens his hind legs in reflex, but is forced to sit. Actually there is another, 3. The trainer says, “siiutt” in a deep, gruff voice, which is threatening to the dog. The dog is punished for what he doesn’t know or understand. He now hates training sessions because, for him, they are punishment sessions. At some point a person, perhaps a child, will place a hand on the dog’s hips, and the dog may turn and snap at or bite. Then guess what? The dog is labeled aggressive, is rehomed or worse yet, euthanized.
The trainer should not be doing all the work. This is not magic, it is not secret, like a recipe. As a trainer want to teach you, the owner, what I do, then you don’t need me to continue training behaviors and/or tricks. Training should be fun for you and the dog. If it isn’t fun, if you and/or your dog do not enjoy what is going on, STOP IT! If you are frustrated, DON’T START! If you are angry with someone, DON’T TRAIN! Your dog knows your mood and will act accordingly.
The training of a behavior culminates, hopefully, in “Stimulus Control.” Stimulus Control. Using the “sit” example, “sit” is the cue that prompts the behavior. When I say or sign “sit” I don’t want the dog to lie down, or spin, or spin then sit. When I want to test the clarity and effectiveness of the cue I have chosen, here is what I look for.
This does not mean the dog cannot sit at will during the day. I am talking about being in a training session or a competition. This is how you establish the dogs understand of the word or the signal given to elicit that particular behavior.
This is all accomplished with that little box that clicks. With the CLICKER we capture the behavior, we then add a word or a signal to pair with that behavior, then refine the dogs understanding of that word or signal, and generalize that cued behavior in other environments.
Remember, when a behavior is established, you can put the CLICKER and treats away until you want to teach another behavior. You will still reward and reinforce behaviors when your dog responds to a cue. You do this periodically because you love your dog and show appreciation for doing what you ask. If a behavior weakens it may mean you are not clear or you have allowed something else to be attached to your cue. You may get the CLICKER and treats out to reestablish that particular cue. If you punish the dog for not offering the behavior right away when cued, then you may poison the cue and need to change the cue for that behavior.
For trainers who may read this, I am aware I did not get into the dynamics of classical or operant conditioning. I did not get into the six aspects of Fluency as related to Stimulus Control. I did not explain that a person can have two cues for one behavior, but cannot have two behaviors expected with one cue. My interest here is the science and practice of Marker training, also referred to as CLICKER TRAINING. If one feels I left something out, did not emphasize something strongly enough, did not address the objections to, or misunderstandings of, or did not draw comparisons between Force-Free and Traditional training, I understand. My intent was not to write a comparative study of CLICKER TRAINING. It is intended to be an expose’ of CLICKER TRAINING proper.
If one has an understanding of my psychology, philosophy, and method of training an animal one can understand better other articles I write. This Force-Free approach is not an option for me, it is me. It is not up for debate. The proofs are in the results. I train in home pets, I train Service Dogs, and I work to modify very aggressive dogs. My methods are the same. I cannot, will not train aggression in a dog. There is no place for choke chains, prong collars, or shock collars in working with an animal. I collect these control and tortuous products from owners who were told, These work.”
The dogs we CLICKER TRAINERS work with, love us. I tell clients, “If your dog does not act this way with a trainer, get rid of the trainer” We laugh together at that, but I also am serious. Only trust your pet with someone who will treat him with respect, dignity, and kindness.
HAPPY CLICKING.
Under Construction
ANIMAL TALK 